Just last week, a student told me that he “can’t figure out why my wedges are so inconsistent.” One look at his setup told the whole story — he had the ball positioned as if he were hitting a driver, with his hands hanging behind the ball, trying to help it up in the air.
The wind was blowing about 15 mph that day and his high, floating wedge shots were getting tossed around like beach balls.
Most amateurs think wedges are supposed to fly high. Sometimes, this is true. Sometimes, yes, but if you can’t hit them low when you need to, you’re giving away strokes every single round.
Why high wedge shots can kill your scores
Every golfer I teach makes the same assumption: more loft means the ball has to go up. They set up to their wedges the same way they would a 7-iron and then wonder why their wedge distance control is all over the map.
Recently, I had a guy come to me who was shooting in the low 80s. Although he was a solid ball-striker, his short game was costing him at least five shots per round. He said that when the wind would pick up, he’d have no idea where his wedges were going to land. He couldn’t hit it close on firm greens because his shots came in too steep.
After teaching him how to flight his wedges, he dropped four strokes off his handicap in two months.
When you absolutely need low wedge shots
Windy conditions? High shots are like hitting a jackpot on a scratch-off lottery ticket. A low, penetrating wedge shot cuts through the wind and lands predictably. You can actually aim at pins instead of guessing where the wind will take your ball.
Firm or fast greens? That high, soft landing only works on receptive surfaces. When greens are running fast, low shots with natural spin give you much better distance control.
Tight pin positions? Front pins, back pins, tucked corners—they all demand precision. Low wedge flights let you land the ball exactly where you’re aiming and let it release to the hole.
Awkward lies? Hardpan, tight fairways, divots—high shots from these lies are nearly impossible. A low flight takes the lie out of play and gives you a fighting chance.
The setup that makes it automatic
Ball position is everything. Most golfers play wedges off their front foot like they’re trying to get maximum height. Wrong move.
Ball position: Middle to slightly back of center. This creates the descending blow you need for a penetrating flight.
Weight distribution: 60-70 percent on your front foot at setup. Stay there through impact. This prevents the scooping motion that sends balls skyward.
Hands: Well ahead of the ball at setup and even more ahead at impact. If your hands are behind the ball, you’re adding loft and creating height you don’t want.
Shaft lean: Forward shaft lean at impact is non-negotiable. This delofts the club and creates the trajectory you’re after.
The swing that delivers control
Forget the long, flowing swing you use with longer irons. Low wedge shots require a compact, controlled motion.
Backswing: Three-quarter length, maximum. Fewer moving parts means better control and more consistent contact.
Tempo: Smooth and deliberate, not quick. Let the club do the work instead of trying to muscle it.
Impact: Hit down and through the ball. You want to take a divot after the ball, not before it. That’s how you know you’re making proper contact.
Follow-through: Low and abbreviated. Your hands should finish around chest height, not up by your ear.
What actually creates spin and control
Most golfers think they need to hit wedge shots harder to get spin. While it’s true that you need speed as you move into impact, the idea of hitting it ‘harder’ is entirely backwards.
Clean contact with proper technique creates all the spin you need. A descending blow with forward shaft lean naturally creates backspin that makes the ball check up on landing.
The low flight path actually helps with spin as well. The ball lands at a shallower angle and grabs the green better than shots that come in steep from up high.
The mistake that ruins everything
Trying to help the ball up in the air. As soon as you start scooping or flipping your wrists through impact, you’ve lost all control over trajectory and distance.
Trust the loft that’s built into your wedges. Your job is to make solid contact with a descending blow. The club will create the right flight path if you let it do its job.
Start with short shots first
Don’t jump straight into full wedge shots from 100 yards. Work on the technique with 30-yard shots around the practice green first.
Get comfortable with the ball position, weight distribution and descending contact. Once you can hit consistent low flights from short range, gradually work your way up to longer distances.
Most golfers try to learn this technique under pressure on the course. Bad idea. Groove it on the range first.
Stop guessing at distance control
Low wedge shots are about precision, not power. Once you master the technique, you’ll know exactly how far each wedge carries with different swing lengths.
That consistency is what separates good short-game players from everyone else. They’re not hoping their wedge shots work out. They know exactly what the ball is going to do before they swing.
Master low wedge flights and you’ll never be at the mercy of wind or firm conditions again. More importantly, you’ll finally have the control around greens that turns good rounds into great ones.
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