Fashion, just like all art, is subjective. Trends change. When the father of impressionism, Édouard Manet, exhibited some of his early paintings at the Salon, his work was widely panned, controversial with critics and ordinary people alike. He now stands today as one of the totems of French art, beloved by many.
It is my – subjective – opinion that the new Ineos Grenadiers kit is pretty terrible. Not for the orange top half of the jersey, nor for the way it suddenly cuts into white halfway down. No, for the ‘light grey’ shorts. It’s not just bad in a ugh-I-don’t-love-it way, as has happened with numerous kits before, but in a I-fundamentally-don’t-like-it sense. The shorts don’t even appear to match with the lower half of the jersey, but that’s not the biggest issue.
Perhaps I’m wrong. I doubt I’m in the minority here, but it is possible that in the future the ‘light grey’ bib shorts, that are so light they’re practically white, will become an icon. Cycling kit fashion changes too. Perhaps it will be the combo that everyone wants to wear. Perhaps I am the reactionaries at L’Académie des Beaux-Arts as Manet shows off what will become a masterpiece. I don’t think so, though.
Adam is no fashion expert, but he is aware of the perils of wearing white shorts.
There is a reason why most cycling teams, and recreational riders, use black or navy shorts. There is, of course, space for other dark tones – the dark grey of Jayco AlUla, the brown that AG2R used to wear, the forest green that all the influencers wore for a bit – but light tones are avoided.
Firstly, in case the designers hadn’t realised, cycling is an outdoor sport. Light shorts might be great in the boiling heat and dry roads of the Vuelta a España in August, but the team will have to wear them on the muddy cobbles of Paris-Roubaix, the dusty gravel of Strade Bianche, and the inevitable rain of the Giro d’Italia. Light tones are unforgiving, quick to show up all manner of mark or mess, from road debris to, well, unfortunate leaks after euphemistic “nature breaks“. They also have the potential to show up, err, a lot more underneath.
Of course, there is space for lighter coloured kits. Tadej Pogačar and Lotte Kopecky have chosen, at times, to wear white shorts with their world champion’s jerseys. Similarly, other national and continental champions have worn white shorts on occasions, while the leaders of Grand Tours are often seen in coloured skinsuits.
The difference is that these are choices on particular race days, not a universal kit which is the norm for the team throughout the year. Pogačar could choose not to wear black shorts on a rainy day, but Kim Heiduk or Ben Swift will have to wear light grey whatever the weather.
To give Ineos and the kit’s designer, GOBIK, the right to reply, the brand’s CEO, Alberto García, said: “The kit has been designed for the team to stand out like never before in the peloton. Orange, an iconic colour for the team, reinforces its identity and is paired with a light grey bib short developed in close collaboration with team management, the riders themselves and our designers.
“We wanted a colour that not only offered visibility and modernity, but also turned the kit into a trend-setting fashion statement within the peloton. This collaborative effort has been key to creating a kit that reflects the spirit of Ineos – the shared drive to innovate.”
My friend Rob Borek also expressed positive noises about the kit: “I’m no graphic designer, but I think it will stand out well in the bunch. Pale shorts make your legs look more tanned, which is a result for pasty British people who never see any sun. I like that it’s bold and different. I do worry that on wet days, riders may look like they’ve had bathroom accidents.”
The kit will stand out, that’s certain, but I’m not sure it’s in the way the designers intended. They will probably be fine at the Tour Down Under, but when racing begins in the inclement weather in northern Europe, it will be quite the look. I just hope that the fabric is robust enough to not show everything all the time.
If the kit does become a classic, the ‘light grey’ shorts the new ‘Un Bar aux Folies-Bergère’, I will return to apologise, but you won’t see me wearing the shorts. The riders might like it – I cannot read minds. Let’s see how it is for racing.
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