It’s 3:30 a.m. I spring out of bed, slug down some canned coffee, and hop into my car. I queue up the album “Dirt” by Alice in Chains and head toward the beach. Upon arrival, I quickly air down my tires to 15 psi and rip through the dunes until I reach my lucky spot, a sand flat with a short drop-off. I hop out of my car, clutching my streamer wallet, grab my ten-weight and watch the first crack of light illuminate the dark sky, while the only thing on my mind is false albacore. I walk into the gin-clear water, waiting for the first push of albies.
I can feel the north wind create a slight ripple on the calm water. With my fly rod in one hand and a fly in my other, I scan the water for signs of life. Suddenly, I see a group of six albies crest over a wave, and I know this is my shot. I quickly haul my line and land my fly right in front of the school. Two quick strips later, my line begins slicing through the water like a knife. As I scream excitedly, I give the fish not one, not two, but three hooksets. Holding onto my rod, I watch as the fly line turns to backing—I can tell I’m on a real one. I begin to put the heat on the albie with increased drag and side pressure. Within seconds, it makes me pay for it by screaming right toward me, and I’m forced to reel in what feels like a hundred yards of line. By the time I catch up, the fish zooms down the edge of the trough. With side pressure, I turn its head and slowly bring it up to the beach. My arms are exhausted. I see my fly in the corner of its mouth … I’m looking at a 10-plus-pound albie.
Elements of the Bite
I’ve caught albies as early as the last week of August and as late as the second week of November. Although these fish are highly unpredictable, I’ve figured out a few patterns in the chaos that is albie fishing on the fly.
The bigger the bait, the more aggressive the fish: Albies have massive eyes that give them a sharp view of their prey. When these speedsters chow down on micro meals like tiny sand eels and spearing, as a fisherman, it can be hard to mimic the colors and size of their natural prey. At times, it’s even tough to distinguish what they might be feeding on. However, when albies home in on big baits like squid, large sand eels, and small butterfish, they go into a manic state where they don’t think twice about chasing and crushing your offering.
Fish the tide switch: I’ve had plenty of all-day albie action, but the most consistent is right when the tide begins to turn. To be more specific, I time most of my outings around the first hour after slack high and low. While the albies just about disappear at slack, the first heavy push of water reinvigorates their appetites. As a rule of thumb, I get to my spot early so that I’m already in place when the fish pass through.
The sloppier the weather, the better the chew: Don’t get me wrong. I’ve caught albies on clear days with low wind, but the days when the wind and rain pound my face get the fish chewing. As the wind pushes bait toward the shore, the fish oblige by trapping them right against the shoreline. If you can get the right cast into the mix, these fish throw caution to the wind and put on the feed bags. Typically, I scan the beach and track down blitzes on heavy weather days rather than throw out my arm casting in the wind.
First light is right: There’s nothing quite like a first-light bite. As the sun rises, albies tend to make their initial push along the beach. Rolling in packs, they pulverize bait and quickly peel off. Make sure you’re at your spot well before sunrise so that you’re able to take advantage of their fast push. The fish might slide by once, or you could have them all morning. One thing for sure, though: Get there early.
Fish your fly to the rod tip: I’ve had plenty of fish crush my fly at my feet. Albies come out of nowhere to crush a fly, so each and every retrieve should finish at your rod tip. As for retrieving, ensure that you maintain a constantly-moving two-handed strip. It doesn’t have to be lightning fast, but keep it moving.
Beach Structure
Fishing for albies on the beach is all about structure. That said, it’s not your typical reef or boulder field … albies rely on a different form of structure.
Fast-moving current: I view this as its own structure. The wind, bottom contour, and moon phases all play a role in creating a fast-moving current, which traps bait, leaving them open for easy access by speedy albies. I’ve always noticed that the fish hang out along the edge of the current and quickly blitz into the bait pile for 10 to 30 seconds before exiting and going back into hiding on the edge.
Sandbars: As water pushes against a sandbar, it creates turbulence that confuses and traps bait. Albies hang out at the edge of the bar and quickly rip into the white water to feast on bait before making a stealthy exit. However, fishing a sandbar is a tide-dependent game. A higher tide provides deeper water that allows albies to push into the white-water zone with ease. At low tides, these areas are likely too shallow to enter and exit.
Troughs: One of my favorite places to catch abies is in a trough. Again, it’s a tide-dependent game. During the top of the tide, fish slide through the cut between two sandbars and ride the waves just off the edge of the trough. If you look long enough, you may see packs of 2 to 3 fish rip on the backside of curling waves. With a short cast, you’re into some fish.
Tools for the Job
Rods: If you’re chasing drag-screaming speedsters, you need the right gear. I always recommend fast-action rods due to their backbone and fast-loading capabilities. With a stiffer and faster rod, you’re able to cast further with fewer hauls. For reel choice, I prefer the Cheeky Spray 450 due to its spectacular drag system and high capacity for backing.
Fly line: The right line makes a world of difference. When fishing for albies, I use aggressive weight-forward floating lines, my favorite being the Royal Wulff triangle taper. The advantage is that it takes fewer false casts and hauls to get distance. With two quick hauls, you’re in the game.
Backing and Leader: Proper backing is crucial. Due to its thin properties and extra-strand insurance, I’ve always favored 16-strand 30-pound Cortland hollow-core. When it comes to leader, I use Cortland XTR fluorocarbon. I build a 12-foot even section of 30-, 20-, and 12-pound leaders connected via blood knots, though if I get fish to chase but not commit, I size down to 8-pound-test fluorocarbon.
Flies: I love tying my own flies, though there are a few crucial elements for a conducive albie fly. I tend to tie flies with large eyes, contrasting body colors, and a streamlined profile. When it comes to albie-tying material, I’m a huge fan of natural bucktail and Cordiero hackle as well as synthetics such as Squimpish fiber, Stever Farrar blend, and Krystal Flash. My two favorite patterns are the pink and white Deceiver and Surf Candy.
Handle with Care
While albies are fierce speedsters, they require cautious handling, so be sure to minimize it. If you plan to take photos, have your camera pre-set. Upon actually releasing the fish, simply propel its head forward in one smooth motion. The fish should shoot off with ease.
