Bouillabaisse was originally created by fishermen, with roots reaching back to the Mediterranean port city of Marseille in southern France. Traditional bouillabaisse often did not include shellfish or crustaceans, and was made from the ugliest “trash” fish that the fishermen could not sell to the fussy French purveyors at the fish markets. Specifically, it was first made with red rascasse (a small, bony scorpionfish), sea robin, and conger eel.
To this day, French cooks continue to argue as to which fish are or are not suitable for use in a bouillabaisse, but all agree that it is critical to include at least 3 species that have varying textures.
Bouillabaisse has a thin fish stock base with fresh tomatoes added in. Other ingredients include potatoes, fennel, orange peel, and, perhaps most importantly, saffron.
Selecting Fish for a Bouillabaisse
Traditional French chefs mandate that this dish should highlight at least three different species of fish. One should be firm, one should be soft and break apart, thickening the soup, and the third should be somewhere in between. Listed below are a few of the local contenders.
FIRM
Blackfish (tautog), monkfish, tilefish, triggerfish, sea robin (must try!)
MEDIUM
Black sea bass, haddock, pollock, scup, kingfish
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SOFT
Fluke, winter flounder, weakfish, bluefish
Northeast Seafood BOUILLABAISSE
Ingredients
3 pounds assorted seafood
1/2 cup olive oil
1 bulb fennel, stems trimmed and sliced
1 large onion, sliced
1 small leek, sliced
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon saffron
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
1 1/2 quarts fish stock (recipe here)
1 bouquet garni*
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Instructions
Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the fennel, leek and onion, and cover. Cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, around 5 minutes. Add the tomato and garlic, cover, and continue cooking until the tomatoes begin to fall apart, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the tomato paste, cayenne, saffron, potatoes, fish stock, and bouquet garni. Bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until the potatoes are cooked, 12 to 15 minutes.
Add the seafood in order of firmness and cooking time. Simmer, stirring very minimally to prevent the pieces of fish from breaking apart, until all the seafood is cooked.
To serve, remove and discard the bouquet garni, taste, and add salt and pepper as needed. Carefully remove the fish and shellfish, arranging them on a large serving platter or in warm bowls. Ladle the broth and potatoes over fish and garnish with the parsley. Serve with a side of French bread. Some cooks place a toasted piece of bread on the bottom of the bowl, and top it with their bouillabaisse. I prefer having my bread served warmed on the side, topped with some butter or rouille.
